A view holding seven centuries of history. Seated comfortably at a beautiful table made of ceramic with festoons of fruit and flowers, the window offers one of the most charming and characteristic views of Naples.
On the left, severe and majestic, stands Maschio Angioino, symbol of the city; on the right, with its unmistakable color red of Pompei, there is a section of the huge complex of the Royal Palace and in the foreground the National Library’s garden, that occupies what once was the banquet hall of the Bourbon palace. The dock, the sea and the Vesuvius are in the background, which could not be excluded from a place so strongly linked to the Neapolitan identity, celebrated here continuously in its varied and multiform essence around a wood oven and a kitchen. Because "San Carlo 17" is a pizzeria-restaurant, but it is also part of the complex enclosing Umberto Gallery and San Carlo Theater, that give its name to both the street and the pizzeria, without prejudice and with a little of superstition. "We are in a monument in front of the world," says Luigi Marra with a smile, the owner pizzaiolo and chef, well aware of the effect that the magnificent postcard from the real offer makes to his guests.
A rustic tavern in the noble heart of Naples
A special place, strongly desired and chosen with care. Confirmed by the inside designed by Marra. On two floors, nothing is left to chance while choosing the antique copper objects hanging on the wall together with the hazelnut doors hand made by his father and the black and white pictures of the movies with Neapolitan actors of the 20th century. "I imagined a rural tavern in the noble heart of Naples – he tells - The classic tavern beneath historic buildings, where people used to gather in a family atmosphere, to eat what is not made at home and be happy together. I furnished it like a garden, with tables from Vitri, all different and very colorful, like the majolica tiles on the floor. Because Naples, for me, is welcoming and colorful, a city with open doors, made of hospitality. Where history has been made, many times, at the table .
He is right: the history of food is an integral part the community. And Marra, expert of everything about his city, enhances the cultural elements of the gastronomy of Naples first of all in the kitchen and then in telling to those frequenting his restaurant. Often to attempt the pizza and Neapolitan cooking lessons, which have become an important part of his job. It is also very satisfying, considering that they are mostly aimed at foreigners, of the most diverse origins and cultures, with whom the chef has the opportunity to be a witness and ambassador of the "art of the palate" in Naples. "For the pizza courses - tells - they come from all over Europe. But the best we did was with Chinese and Japanese people. It is a food experience to show how to make traditional Neapolitan dough and then make pizza. And we discuss about it, of course. Then, we eat it together, with appetizers made to taste our dough. I also run fried pizza and gluten-free pizza courses. And demonstrations of typical dishes of our tradition, of fish, with gnocchi alla sorrentina, the “genovese”… ». And says: "Then I send them pictures with the recipe by email, so they can enjoy the moment and remember it."
Monzù cuisine and fried pizzas
He speaks several languages, which he wanted to learn in order to speak directly, without intermediaries, with those choosing his cuisine. Another of his ways of being welcoming: «This is the place to make Naples known through food. And here everyone must feel at home. This is why I try to tell more about every dish and product, tying them to the listener. If you tell an American that our San Marzano Dop originates in his continent, it has a lot of effect ». And there also is the history of the Neapolitan nouvelle cuisine, the monzù cuisine, and the history of pizza: Salvatore Esposito with his Margherita and the ancient Mastu Nicola, which «is ideal for tasting the dough like the Marinara, the pizza for the people of the sea, which I prefer. With the Margherita, on the other hand, the dairy product covers the taste of the dough ".
One of his specialties is the fried pizza. Marra took it to the Rimini world fair in 2020: "I had planned of doing fifteen as a test but I had to prepare about three hundred in three variants. It is usually thought that it is an ancient recipe, instead it dates back to the period of the last world war. After the bombings, the ovens were closed and the Neapolitans used to fry a low dough of pizza and put tomatoes on it just to have something to eat. As simple as that, without stuffing, which is another thing. I grate the seasoned caciotta, because in our tradition sheep's cheese was used, certainly not Parmesan ». The only novelty allowed is the gluten-free pizza, which is increasingly in demand, of which he has carefully studied the dough and the characteristics, to the point of making it very request in his restaurant.
Many experiences, after mom’s kitchen
Passionate about art, ballet dancer as a boy, Marra has also acting experience and hopes to return soon to acting in theaters. In the meantime, he is pleased to welcome dance stars and theater actors to his restaurant. "Besides San Carlo, here we are also close to San Ferdinando and Augusteo", emphasizes with pride and with the satisfaction of who managed to bring together different passions and interests. Polyhedral is certainly an adjective adapt to him. A synthesis of many work and life experiences, beginning when, at the age of thirteen, he went to work for the first time in a restaurant: «I started from scratch, doing the whole process. I also worked a lot in the dining room, as well as in the kitchen. Those who explained the job to me immediately empowered me, pushing me to learn on my own. And I fell in love with this job ».
Even if he takes care of every aspect of the management, cooking remains his greatest passion. Born among the aromas and flavors of his mother’s dishes, «being the youngest of four sons, I had to help mom with the care of the house. With the making of tortani and casatielli in Easter and eggplant in oil in summer. Then I went around a lot, studied, but some dishes, as Mom prepares them, are still out of my reach ». Including the "Genovese". Which is also one of his specialties. With the coppery onion of Montoro and much care for the long cooking. Always ready to join the table of strangers. «Because you can't miss the Genovese while visiting Naples».
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